Sunday, September 23, 2012

Good-bye to Homer---For Now

In just a few days we are leaving Homer to go back to Pennsylvania.  Can hardly believe it.  We have been having a fun time at dinners, parties, and other gatherings saying good-bye to friends------over and over.  We're not sure when, but we are sure we'll return to Homer.  Another fun thought is some of our friends here have promised to visit us in PA.

I have written a poem trying to encapsulate our time here, hitting the highlights.  I read it in church today.  I should say, I struggled to read it in church today.  Emotions were high.

Being In Homer

Sun, mountains, bay, and trees,
Gorgeous sunsets, clouds, and breeze,
Sometimes rain and sometimes snow,
Out our window a lovely show.

Halibut, salmon, dollies, and cod,
We saw them all at the end of our rod;
Bouncing on waves or knee deep in streams,
How blessed we felt living our dreams.

Snow up cabin walls half way,
Lots of beauty, lots of play;
Up and down the hills careening,
Tipping over, snow machining.

Fish, whales, porpoises, birds,
Bears, moose, caribou herds;
Otters lazing, waves breaking;
Hundreds of photos we were taking.

The glaciers, the eagles, the beach, the peaks
Often left us unable to speak;
In the dark, an amazing display;
Moving lights took our breath away.

What excitement and colorful fun,
Dogs pulling sleds on the run;
Visiting Norman again and again,
Can't get enough of this talented man.

Pizza, and mail at Fritz Creek store,
Tiny houses, out houses, dirt roads galore;
Captain B, Two Sisters, dollars on walls,
Jeans, X-Tra Tuffs, and many dropped calls.

Dinners, girl time, taste of wine,
Sourdough pancakes, mighty fine;
On the Spit shopping and walking,
In Tangles Salon styling and talking.

Spiritual growth was happening here;
No duties, no time crunch, no demands, no fear;
A big part to play was Church on the Rock;
Aaron and Jonathan leading the flock.

Mali and Ed, Kathy and Kerry,
Karen and George, Lynne and Gary,
Aron and Janet, Therese and Becky,
Gail, Mei, Monica, Carolyn, Shelly,

Ruthie and Kevin, Paula and Jacque,
Linda and Allen, Jeanie and Vicki,
Some of the many in Homer we knew;
So many more; these but a few.

To say all are special sounds so lame;
Love and acceptance we found when we came
To Homer, a beautiful and unique place,
Filled with generosity, kindness, and grace.

Hard as it is, it's time to go home;
We'll drive and we'll drive but never alone,
For in our memory and in our heart,
It's not the end but merely the start.

 

Monday, August 6, 2012

All For The Love of Sourdough Pancakes

August sixth and hints of fall are encroaching.  I learned that the term, termination dust, means the first fresh snow on the top of a mountain.  This has already happened.  The two weeks of summer we had at the end of July were great.

 Nelson and I are starting to prepare our hearts, minds and possessions to leave this beautiful place; so we're busy scheduling------our last two hair appointments, my last doctor's appointments, the car maintenance necessary for such a long drive.  This morning we got up early to take the car in for it's oil change, etc.  I decided to go along because then we could eat breakfast at a favorite restaurant.

You see, sourdough is very popular here, and sourdough pancakes are sublime.  I happen to love pancakes, but I don't make them.  Even though I like to cook and bake and have some facility at it, I don't "do" pancakes.  They're just not as good as when someone else does them---usually.  Any excuse to have pancakes, especially sourdough, I'm on it.  Hence,  when we drove together to the auto shop, I had pancakes on my mind.

Being the sweet, considerate husband he is, Nelson dropped me off at a little restaurant while he delivered the car. This was not the restaurant of choice with the pancakes but only a place to wait.  It was near the auto shop in the, shall we say, industrial, section of Homer.  I had never been there.  When I entered, I saw a decor I would define as, "old dive",  just shy of, "broken down".  There were no customers, only a sturdy, unhappy-looking woman leaning on the counter smoking a cigarette.  The name of the place was a woman's name; so I asked if she were that person.  She said yes, and we struck up a conversation.  Turned out we were both Pittsburgh natives; so we had lots to talk about.  She brightened and kept my coffee cup filled without prompting.  Of course, I was unhappy about the smoke but had the distinct feeling that I should keep that complaint to myself.  After all, I had not chosen to sit in the one non-smoking booth three feet from all the other booths.

What a hoot!  The restaurant owner talked about Pittsburgh and Alaska in her raspy, smoky voice.  We reminisced about the Pirates in their hey day and Roberto Clementi.  While we talked, several wizened older men arrived and the coffee flowed.  The owner had a T-shirt on that looked like acid had been spilled on it because it had about a dozen small holes across it.  The saying on the shirt warned us that she was not someone to mess with.  Political discussion was front and center and highly opinionated.  No Kool Aid there!  No implying, couching, finessing, hinting.  I got the impression that if someone didn't like the expressed opinions, the door to leave was wide open.

Time to check on the car.  We walked down the road together chuckling about what we had just experienced.  The car was not ready; so we waited as I'm sure most of you have had to do at an auto shop only our wait was outside in the parking lot.  My "chair" was the edge of a utility trailer.  Soon Nelson's phone rang.  The car was ready.  We strolled the 30 yards to the shop to pay.

We drove straight away to the restaurant of choice.  All of the above took an hour and a half.  All of the above I experienced because I was hungry for sourdough pancakes.  They were delicious.



















Thursday, August 2, 2012

Fishing Frenzy----A Guest Writer Post



Nelson, my husband, loves to fish.  He has enjoyed every minute of being in Alaska, and we have a freezer full of fish in PA and AK.  Here is his story about his experience dip netting, a method of fishing for salmon that only AK residents of at least one year are allowed to use.



                                                       Fishing Frenzy

Summer is the fishing season in Alaska and it tends to be intense.  Of course, I’ve been out fishing for halibut several times, which is always fun, and have begun fly fishing on the local rivers.  But the big event this year is that I got to go “dip netting.”  Okay, that term may be unfamiliar, so let’s step back a bit.  Dip netting is an ancient practice, beginning with the native Alaskans who have lived here for over 10,000 years.  A typical modern dip net consists of a circular aluminum frame either 4 or 5 feet in diameter, with a gill net attached that looks sort of like a huge sock full of holes.  A 6-8 foot aluminum pole with a handle of some sort at the end is attached to the circular net frame.  Except for the net, the entire thing consists of 1¼ inch aluminum pipe and weighs about 15 pounds.  Dip netting permits are issued to Alaska residents who have lived here for at least one full year, which now includes me.

Not surprisingly, the cost of living in Alaska is much higher than in the lower 48 states.  Groceries and fuel average about 25% above what we are used to in PA.  (One of our favorite pastimes is to take visitors to the local grocery store and watch their eyes bug out when they see the prices.  What fun!)  However, there are some compensations.  For example, there is no state income tax in AK, and residents receive a modest dividend each year from the state’s oil extraction royalties. Imagine, the state government does not immediately SPEND all its money and more besides.  Also, residents are allowed to harvest fish by dip netting or other netting methods for their family’s use, which is called subsistence fishing.  Each head of household is allowed to take 25 salmon by such methods, plus 10 more for each additional family member.  So, for example, Sue and I are entitled to 35 salmon.

One of the well-known characteristics of salmon is that they return to their river of birth to spawn at the end of their life cycle.  It may be less well-known that the five salmon species do not return haphazardly but in concentrations known as “runs,” which generally last for several weeks each.  One of the foremost runs in Alaska is for the Sockeye salmon (a.k.a., red salmon).  They return each year in the last 3 weeks of July to the Kenai River, located about 80 miles north of Homer.  The fish do not enter the river uniformly over that period.   The number of salmon is counted by a sophisticated sonar system located 19 miles upstream from the river’s mouth.  This counting system not only gives an accurate count, but can distinguish between species.  The run may begin with 2000-4000 salmon per day, but then it rapidly builds… 10,000, 15,000, 25,000 per day… at which point it explodes suddenly… 100,000 to 200,000 on the peak day, followed by an immediate reduction to 50,000, and then 10,000-30,000 per day until the run ends.  Fishermen by the thousands are intensely interested in tracking the daily counts of fish online so they can head for the mouth of the river where dip netting is allowed at the exact right time.  Entire families come by the hundreds to net, clean, filet, and process their fish for the coming year.

So, now that you have the background, here’s my own story.  It’s Sunday morning and we’re sitting in church participating in a wonderful time of worship.  Suddenly, the cell phone of our friend, George, goes off.  George is in his 70's and has his phone’s ring volume set very high.  It’s his young friend, Matt, who has called to say that the big run of “reds” is underway at the Kenai River, and he needs another guy to help man his 24-ft boat for the dip netting frenzy.  You see, one man needs to drive the boat, while two others operate their dip nets from either side.  Matt has a wife and five boys at home; so he’s entitled to dip net for 85 salmon.  He runs his own excavation business through much of the year, but like many men in Alaska, he’s often under-employed during the winter months and depends on this source of food to help feed his family.  So, here’s George excitedly talking on the phone with Matt in the middle of worship while his dismayed wife is hitting him smartly in the ribs with her elbow.  George says he’s not able to go but maybe Nelson would be able to go in the afternoon after worship.  I’m skeptical it can work out for me, but Sue – now a true Alaskan gal – says, “Go, go!”  Later, I found our pastor and several others from our church netting up on the Kenai River too.  It’s a wonder the whole church didn’t empty out right in the middle of worship.

By mid-afternoon, we were on the Kenai River taking turns steering the boat, while the other two men operated the dip nets.  The method involves driving the boat slowly down the quarter-mile-wide river close to the banks where the fish tend to concentrate.  The nets are held under the water perpendicular to the flow so that a salmon rushing upstream might swim directly into the net.  They generally cannot see the net well because the water near the mouth of the river has a lot of plankton, making it rather murky.  When a salmon slams into the net, the fisherman has to twist the net quickly to the horizontal position, lift the mouth above the water, and swing both net and salmon on board the boat before the fish can escape.  This can be tougher than it sounds.  It takes strength and agility.  Since these salmon weigh 6-10 pounds, a very large torque at the end of the long pole is created, and then there's the weight of the circular aluminum mouth of the net.  Once the fish is removed, the net is shoved back over the boat’s gunwale (side) and under the water again while the boat continues downstream.  A marker indicates the limit where dip netting is allowed.  At the marker the boat is steered back upstream for about half a mile, following the middle of the river.  Then it’s swung back to the bank for another pass down the river.  During the return upstream, fish captured on the last pass are gathered up and stored in large coolers.  An average trip down the river may yield 2-3 salmon, but when the big schools arrive it can get crazy.  As many as 10-15 fish can be landed in 15 minutes.

Here’s what it’s like on a typical pass downstream.  I was using Matt’s big 5-ft diameter net, which has an extra long pole, while Matt drove the boat.  He’s a big, very strong guy, while I’m a skinny, 65-year-old who has never done this before.  So, you can see where this is headed.  There I’d be, standing at the boat’s gunwale, holding the net several feet under the water, when WHAM a 10-lb salmon hits the net.  Rotate!! Lift!!  Wrestle the net and fish into the boat, which by now is very wet and has several salmon already sliding back and forth in its bottom.  This puts me off balance and I slip on the wet bottom, falling backwards with the net’s mouth above me.  The salmon is badly tangled in the net by this time and is thrashing around madly, while I’m desperately trying to grab it and untangle it from the net.  Meanwhile, the fellow on the other side of the boat has also nabbed a salmon and this madness is being repeated alongside me.  At this point I’m down and the fish is up.  I think the fish is winning!  Matt, at the boat’s wheel, is laughing uproariously like his sides will split.  I’m laughing hilariously, too, because of the shear ridiculousness of the sight.

We fished until 11:00pm----7 hours through the long summer evening.  This period later proved to be the exact peak of the salmon run. Over 194,000 fish were counted that day by the upstream sonar. Altogether, we took 150 fish, each of us reaching his full quota.  At an average of over 7 lbs apiece, that’s 1000 lbs of salmon, a microscopic dent in the 700,000–1,000,000 fish successfully passing upstream each year.  It would have been well worth the trip just to see the look on Matt’s face during the middle of the evening when as many as 2 or 3 fish were being netted at once each time a net was lowered over the side.  He was like a great big kid with a wide grin, eyes gleaming brightly, and happy laughter.  After returning to the dock, we divided the fish.  Alaska is probably one of the few places in the world where this fishing method is still used.  What an experience!




                                         The grandkids holding a dip net



                                                   Fire up the grill!

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Family Visit

Summer arrived, at last.  It  happened during the last two weeks of July.  It was touch and go there for quite awhile, but finally, we could declare, summer arrived.   The lupine bloomed for an extra long time because of the colder than normal temps, but finally the fire weed bloomed. The sun appeared day after day, the temperature rose to the high 60's----maybe even low 70's a couple of days, and people's spirits soared. 

Happily, summer got here just as my daughter and her family did.  We enjoyed every minute of the visit and were very busy showing them all the things/places we've grown to love here.  We toured Homer and shopped on the Spit.  We visited the Lowell Gallery.  The kids really enjoyed a particularly creative and extensive new playground that opened recently.  We went to Seward for a couple days.  We visited the Sea Life Center,  cruised on the Bay of Alaska,  visited  Exit Glacier, and experienced dog sledding sans snow.  Some of the family went fishing numerous times and for the most part, were successful.

In the wild we saw moose, otters, whales, porpoises, seals, sea lions, cranes, eagles, puffins and more.  In fact, we even saw a yow!  How many people can say that?  The kids and I were on the beach one day and along came two women, one with a huge, white, long-haired, long-horned animal.  It had a saddle on its back and was being led on a leash!   Of course we had to inquire about it and were told it was a yow, which is a cross between a cow and a yak.  Who knew?  They also had two small goats on a leash.   What a sight!  It was like something out of  Dr. Seuss.  I guess everyone and everything likes the beach.

One of the sweetest days we had though was a boat trip into many of the coves and fjords across the bay.  Our dear friends borrowed a boat and motored us around for hours in and out of half dozen inlets so we could see "the real Alaska".  What a treat.  We saw scenery that was simply breathtaking.  The mountains, the glaciers, the snow fields, the water, the rock formations, the sea life----all of it just amazing.  Around every corner the view was more gorgeous than the last.  And since the captain of the boat has lived here so long and spent most of his life on the water, he could narrate the tour for us with skill and personal knowledge.  It was awesome.  We all loved it.

I think our family now understands that though the scenery here is magnificent and seeing the animals is exciting, it's the people who really make this place so special.  We have made a remarkable number of friends in the relatively short time we've been here.  People are so open, accepting, and generous.  They are not judgemental.  I feel spoiled and pampered but most of all, grateful.   The people we know here have warmly taken us into their hearts and shared their lives with us.  We have repeatedly been offered  the loan of things we might need and even places to stay when we return.  We have been in homes time after time for meals and gatherings.  They have answered endless questions and been willing to share their life's stories.  They have taken us places and taught us things. They have shared their time.

Our family has left.  It was hard to see them go not only because we will miss them, but also because their leaving was a time-marker.  They had been planning this trip for several years once they knew we were coming here.   We were so eager for them to come and yet, their visit means we have only a very short time to remain here.  We look forward to returning home and catching up with folks.  Our house there will be demanding much of our attention for some time, I'm sure.  But I'm also sure we'll be coming back here.  We have two homes now.



                                                   China Poot Bay off Katchemak Bay


                                                           The harbor at Seward


                                           The fam in front of  Exit Glacier near Seward


                                                            Otters--Gulf of Alaska

                                                 Humpback whale in the Gulf of Alaska


                                                  Yow and goats on the Homer Spit



                                                        Beauty on the Katchemak














Monday, June 4, 2012

Summer At The Fifty-Nineth Parallel

Summer is here, I guess. It gets light at ........well, come to think of it, it never really gets totally dark.  The sun rises now before 5AM and sets about 11:30PM.  We need no lamps lit in the cabin until midnight.  The stores and restaurants that  closed for winter in Homer are open again.  Cruise ships have arrived.  Tents and RV's have sprouted on the beach like colorful mushrooms.  The Spit is crowded and busy.  Boats are coming out of dry dock.  The fishermen are doing their thing.  Nelson has been fishing numerous times with great success on the Bay catching halibut but not so much success on the rivers trying to get king salmon.

There have been abundant bear sitings reported, but none by us.  On the other hand, we see cranes everyday.  They have matched up and presumably laid their eggs by  now.  So funny to watch, they step through the yard like they're tip toeing, afraid of putting their feet in the wrong place.  When they come in for a landing their great wings are open wide. They tilt this way and that to position themselves just right. Their long, thread thin legs, normally tucked against their bodies while in flight, are hanging down.  They float down out of the sky like they're using a parachute, landing with a great harumph.

The moose are dropping calves here, there and everywhere, including downtown.  Apparently, a mama birthed twins by the side of a downtown street snarling traffic recently.  We had a calf born at the edge of our yard a week ago.  The calf was up and walking about like a drunken partier within seconds.  Recently I saw a mama moose crossing the street with her calf in tow.  The calf looked all of a minute and a half old.  The mama went across in a very no nonsense way, not waiting at all for the calf.  The calf, however, was not so sure about this adventure as cars backed up, waiting.  The calf wobbled part way onto the road, hesitated, retreated, then started out again.  Mom came part way back to offer encouragement then proceeded back to the far side, down into and back out of a ditch and on into the brush.  The calf took courage and followed her as fast as it could.  When it got to the ditch, it fell in.  All I could see was the water splashing, but soon the smart little thing found his feet and a way out of the ditch by walking inside it to the end where it was easier to get out.  They have to learn fast.  Apparently a mama moose does not baby her babies.  She will defend them though.  People have to be very careful when near a mama moose.

Certainly one can't determine the presence of summer by the temperatures.  Two days ago it was 30 degrees when I got up at 6:00.  There was frost on the grass and car, and the plant I had set out was very unhappy.  Our daily temperatures have been in the high 40's to somewhere in the 50's with a burst of 60 one day!  A local friend told me when she used to go fishing at this time of year there would be ice in the eye holes of her rod.  Regardless of the chill the plants have greened completely.

Neither can you determine the season by what people wear here.  Tank tops, shorts, sandals, flip flops are on many brave bodies, but jeans and long sleeves prevail.  Of course even in winter here, one can see an occasional rebellious soul wearing flip flops or shorts.  I have learned not to gape and shake my head.  But honestly if  you want to wear shorts and tank tops,  you just have to do it at your own chosen time because you'll never have to wear them as a solution to the heat.

Oh yes, one more sign of summer.  The farmers' market opened Memorial Day weekend and will be open on Wednesday afternoons and Saturdays until Oct.  At this market you will find all the fresh produce produced here-------radishes, carrots, rhubarb, beets, rhubarb, blueberries, and rhubarb.  The beets are the size of ping pong balls and decidedly not sweet.  The rhubarb is good though!  And the carrots and blueberries are very good.  It's a small market.

I flipped the calendar to June; so I know summer is here.  With that flip of the calendar comes our one year anniversary living here.  Hard to believe.  It's been an exciting, fun, blessed, interesting, educational year.  We have loved every minute.  But flipping the calendar to June also means there's only six more weeks until some of our family comes for a long-awaited visit.  The pull of home and family is irresistible.  Nelson and I talk daily about all the things we want to show them while they're here.  Have you ever noticed that when you love something so much, you want those you love to love the same thing?  Can't wait.  It's finally summer!